How to Meet Howlers and Dance in the Jungle

“My friends laughed when I booked the trip. But then they saw my photos…”


When Garceth called, a three foot Harpy Eagle flew out of the jungle. (The two of them looked like they were having a conversation!) Then the eagle soared above me and landed close, cocking his head to the side as he peered at us.

“Don’t you want to take a picture?” Garceth asked, snapping me out of my daze.

I snapped some pictures and posted them on Trip Advisor. Days later, a team of scientists contacted me wanting to know how the heck I got shots of this endangered eagle (with a pocket camera!)

Don’t ask me, I wrote back, ask Garceth!

“My Tour Guide Rescued an Ocelot!”

Garceth grew up in an Embera village in the Darien Gap – a jungle that National Geographic called “one of the most rugged places” on earth. He...

...was born in a hut, made only out of palm.

...travelled on the Rio Chico by dugout canoe.

...camouflaged himself to hunt wild boar.

...spearfished for Tilapia, Dogfish and River Shrimp.

...helped injured ocelots and assisted anteaters.

...worked as a park ranger for 11 years and guide for Smithsonian tropical research scientists.

...travelled to the USA on full scholarship to complete a degree in Natural Resources.

...became trilingual in Embera, Spanish and English.

I met Garceth while doing an Embera tour. We re-arranged our travel plans to book him for a nature tour as well and were so glad we did!

If visiting the jungle is like going to a party full of interesting strangers, Garceth is the friendly host who introduced me to everyone. In a few short hours, I met whiteface monkeys, a poison dart frog, two snakes and countless tropical birds. And somewhere, between howling at howler monkeys and eating dinner around a fire, we built a friendship that’s lasted nearly a decade.


Warning: You'd Better Be a Boy Scout.

(Or a Girl Guide.)

A few words of caution for those who need modern facilities: There are no hairdryers, no makeup mirrors and no automatic coffee makers. In fact, there is no running water. If you decide to have an Embera experience then you are going to have to use a pit toilet (outhouse).

And, since the villages do not have internet or adequate cell phone coverage, Garceth is unable to arrange last minute tours. Please book ahead.

How to meet Howlers and Dance in the Jungle

Many tours go to the Embera Villages and Chagres National Park. But there are a few reasons why you might wish to consider visiting the slightly farther, Embera Puru village...

A more authentic experience. Embera Puru is the most traditional village and the best place to learn about herbal medicine, shamanism, midwifery, marriage and Embera culture in general. Residents here still wear traditional clothing and carry on their traditions. (Plus, photos are encouraged!)

Get closer to nature. Enjoy a longer dugout canoe ride that goes deeper into the jungle. Embera Puru has more mountains, larger trees and the most biodiversity. So you’ll have a greater opportunity to interact with nature.

Learn about a completely different way of life directly from someone who’s lived it.

Plus you can…

Enjoy a musical performance with ancient instruments and ceremonial dances.

Savour a traditional jungle lunch of fried fish, plantains and tropical fruit served in a bowl made of Bijao leaves.

Learn the secrets of the rainforest. Even a short nature walk with Garceth will uncover many different edible or medicinal plants and camouflaged animals.

Have peace of mind. Garceth decades of experience leading groups safely.

Relax! All equipment is provided. All of the transfers and details are taken care of for you.

What Other Travellers are Saying

Embera Tours Panama is the top Embera tour company and the recipient of a TripAdvisor award of excellence. Check out what other visitors have to say…

“Meeting new people and different lifestyle was best education for our son!” Mara H Clearwater, Florida

“Eye-opening for my 9 and 6 year-old daughters” Jake T Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States

“Highlight of our trip to meet these warm and wonderful people.” travelpal600 Tucker, Georgia

“High Point Of The Panama Cruise” Ken D Sosua, Dominican Republic

“Garceth - an authentic Embera guide - great time!” szyman806 Providence, RI

“Outstanding Adventure in Panama” Mooneyson1 Phoenix, Arizona

“Like travelling back in time!” Barbara O Richmond

“unforgettable learning experience for all ages” jolajarek Philadelphia

“HIGHLIGHT of Panama trip” Cathy K Silver Spring, Maryland

“A MUST WHEN IN PANAMA” Derobo Monaco-Ville, Monaco

“highlight of panama trip” cohoqueen1 Vancouver Island, Canada

“Garceth is the best!” AndyC C NYC

Travel with can make a huge difference in the world.

Many tour companies go to the Embera villages, but most only pay the direct costs of the visit (fuel, food, and guides.) They bargain hard to get a good price from the Embera and pocket the difference.

When you book directly with Garceth, a full 70% of our money goes back to the community. This pays for education, medical care and other necessities in a village with no welfare or government handouts.

I know for travelers, like you and I, giving back to the people is important.

Book Panama’s Most Popular Embera Guide

For the most immersive experience, I highly recommend an overnight trip. At $200 per night, the same price as a hotel in Panama City, you’ll have the adventure of a lifetime. Check out the Embera Tours and Nature Tours sections of the website for more details. And don’t forget to make time for extra experiences like spearfishing!

Happy travels, Karen Johnson, Photographer

P.S. Garceth books up months in advance during high season. If you miss out, he can arrange for another Embera guide  to take you on your tour. Or book early if you want to have Garceth and avoid disappointment.